Easy Peasy DC Cowl

One of my favorite fibers to work with is silk.  I carry a fingering weight Merino Wool silk base in my online shop.  It is absolutely, divinely soft.

A few weeks ago, I made a cowl using this base.  This skein was a tester for a color I did last year, and it was sitting around waiting to become something.  I thought a cowl was perfect! 

I chained 215 with an H hook, then worked in double crochet - until I discovered the extended double crochet stitch! So this is half double crochet, half extended double crochet. When I had about 3 yards left I seamed it up using slip stitch, then soaked it in cool water and wool wash. After squeezing out the excess water I just laid it flat to dry, and voilà! It's about 8 inches tall and 72 inches all the way around - it's meant to be wrapped twice.

Picot Loop Edging

• Start with a slip knot as usual.  
• Chain 2, and *on the second chain, continue to pull the thread until the loop is as big as you want it to be.
• Remove your hook from the loop; insert your hook into the first chain.
• Yarn over and pull up a loop.
• Chain two and repeat from *.
• When your Picot Loop Edging is as long as you want it to be, insert hook into the first chain, yarn over and pull up a loop; chain two, then cut thread and pull tail through.

Gently pull on the loops to tighten if necessary.

Sew the edging to a pillow case, guest towel, blouse or whatever you can imagine!

Classic Granny Square in One Color

Chain 4, join with slip stitch to form a ring

Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ring *ch 3, work 3 dc into ring.  Repeat from * twice, ch3, then join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3.  

Round 2: Sl st into next 2 sts.  Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ch 3 space, Ch 3, 3 dc into same space.  *Ch 2, [3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc] into ch 3 space.  Repeat from * twice, ch2, join with a sl st into top of first ch 3.

Round 3: Sl st into next 2 sts.  Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ch 3 space, Ch 3, 3 dc into same space *Chain 2, 3 dc in next ch 2 space, ch 2 [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next chain 3 space.  Repeat from *twice, then ch 2, 3 dc into next ch 2 space.  Ch 2 and join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3 - or join using invisible join as shown in the video.

Just a note - I like to only slip stitch in two stitches leading up to my chain 3 space whenever I start a new round and this is how the instructions are given here.  One of my fellow crocheters also makes a slip stitch into the chain 3 space, and she tells me this is how many others do it as well.  As you can see, my granny looks just fine the way I do it. Hers look just fine her way. You also should choose the way you prefer and what you think works best for you.  

Crochet a Classic Granny Square in Two Colors

There are any number of variations in instructions for a Classic Granny Square.  In this particular sample, I will be making mine with 3dc - 3ch - 3dc shells, or clusters.  As you can see, this is also worked in two colors.

With Color A
Chain 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring

Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ring *ch 3, work 3 dc into ring.  Repeat from * twice, then join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3.

With Color B

Round 2: Join Color B by making a slip knot on hook, then place the hook into any chain 3 space from first round.  Draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops.  Chain 2 more (counts as a dc), then work 2 dc in same space to make half corner.  *Chain 2, [3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc] into next chain 3 space. Repeat from * twice, then ch 2, 3 dc in same space as beginning half corner, ch 3 and join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3.

With Color A

Round 3: Join color as above in Round 2, then make 2 more dc in same chain 3 space to make half corner.  *Chain 2, 3 dc in next ch 2 space, ch 2 [3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc] in next chain 3 space.  Repeat from *twice, then ch 2, 3 dc into next chain 2 space, ch 2, 3 dc in same space as beginning half corner, ch 3 and join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3.

Tunisian Crochet Basketweave Stitch

Abbreviations:
Sts = stitches
Tks = Tunisian Knit Stitch
Tps = Tunisian Purl Stitch

Starting Chain: Multiple of 8 + 4

Work the basic foundation for Tunisian Crochet

Row 1: Tks into each of next 3 sts *Tps into next 4 sts, Tks into next 4 sts*  Repeat from * to end
Work a return pass

Repeat 3 more times

Row 5: Tps into next 3 sts *Tks into next 4 sts, Tps into next 4 sts*  Repeat from * to end
Work a return pass

Repeat 3 more times

Repeat these 8 rows for the pattern

Change Color in Tunisian Crochet

Let's take a look at changing colors in Tunisian Crochet.  It is very easy, and you can choose whether or not you want to change on the left side of the work or on the right.

Each way gives a different look.  In the picture below, you can see that when changing colors on the left side of the work, the vertical bars of the previous color overlap the new color.  That is not so when the color change happens on the right side of the work.

To change colors on the left side of the work:

Complete a forward pass.  Drop the old color and, with the new color, work a return pass as normal.  Draw the new yarn through one loop, then yarn over and pull through two loops for the rest of the row.

To change colors on the right side of the work:

Work your return pass until there are two loops left on your hook.  Drop the old color, and with the new color, pull through the last two loops. If you are working in simple stitch as I did in the sample below, continue as normal; if you are working from a pattern or particular stitch, work as your instructions indicate.

That's it.  Below is a short video showing the color changes.  

Tunisian Purl Stitch

This stitch can be a bit awkward at first (at least it was for me) but with practice you can easily master it.