Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ring *ch 3, work 3 dc into ring. Repeat from * twice, ch3, then join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3. Round 2: Sl st into next 2 sts. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ch 3 space, Ch 3, 3 dc into same space. *Ch 2, [3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc] into ch 3 space. Repeat from * twice, ch2, join with a sl st into top of first ch 3. Round 3: Sl st into next 2 sts. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ch 3 space, Ch 3, 3 dc into same space *Chain 2, 3 dc in next ch 2 space, ch 2 [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next chain 3 space. Repeat from *twice, then ch 2, 3 dc into next ch 2 space. Ch 2 and join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3 - or join using invisible join as shown in the video.
Just a note - I like to only slip stitch in two stitches leading up to my chain 3 space whenever I start a new round and this is how the instructions are given here. One of my fellow crocheters also makes a slip stitch into the chain 3 space, and she tells me this is how many others do it as well. As you can see, my granny looks just fine the way I do it. Hers look just fine her way. You also should choose the way you prefer and what you think works best for you.
There are any number of variations in instructions for a Classic Granny Square. In this particular sample, I will be making mine with 3dc - 3ch - 3dc shells, or clusters. As you can see, this is also worked in two colors.
With Color A
Chain 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring
Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into ring *ch 3, work 3 dc into ring. Repeat from * twice, then join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3.
With Color B
Round 2: Join Color B by making a slip knot on hook, then place the hook into any chain 3 space from first round. Draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. Chain 2 more (counts as a dc), then work 2 dc in same space to make half corner. *Chain 2, [3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc] into next chain 3 space. Repeat from * twice, then ch 2, 3 dc in same space as beginning half corner, ch 3 and join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3.
With Color A
Round 3: Join color as above in Round 2, then make 2 more dc in same chain 3 space to make half corner. *Chain 2, 3 dc in next ch 2 space, ch 2 [3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc] in next chain 3 space. Repeat from *twice, then ch 2, 3 dc into next chain 2 space, ch 2, 3 dc in same space as beginning half corner, ch 3 and join with a slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3.
Let's take a look at changing colors in Tunisian Crochet. It is very easy, and you can choose whether or not you want to change on the left side of the work or on the right.
Each way gives a different look. In the picture below, you can see that when changing colors on the left side of the work, the vertical bars of the previous color overlap the new color. That is not so when the color change happens on the right side of the work.
To change colors on the left side of the work:
Complete a forward pass. Drop the old color and, with the new color, work a return pass as normal. Draw the new yarn through one loop, then yarn over and pull through two loops for the rest of the row.
To change colors on the right side of the work:
Work your return pass until there are two loops left on your hook. Drop the old color, and with the new color, pull through the last two loops. If you are working in simple stitch as I did in the sample below, continue as normal; if you are working from a pattern or particular stitch, work as your instructions indicate.
That's it. Below is a short video showing the color changes.
Once you are comfortable with the Tunisian Simple Stitch, give the Tunisian knit stitch a try. This will give you a fabric that looks like knitted stocking stitch.
I recently started learning Tunisian Crochet, and made the cowl in the picture above. It was fast, easy and fun to make.
I thought it would be nice to share my newest crafty adventure, so in this post and in the following posts, I will be showing you how to Tunisian Crochet.
In this first post, I will cover the foundation, simple stitch, and how to help prevent the curling that goes along with Tunisian Crochet.
Tunisian Crochet creates a very dense, thick fabric. You can get away with using a larger hook than called for on the ball band of your yarn, and still have a nice fabric. Play around with different hook sizes and yarn weights.
Below are both written instructions and a video.
This is a Tunisian Crochet Hook, or Afghan Hook
To begin, make a chain as you normally would for crochet.
Next, make the foundation row. You will work across your chain, leaving the loops on your hook. Begin in the second chain from your hook. Yarn over and pull the loop through.
This is what you will have after you have pulled up your first loop. All loops will be left on the needle.
Continue working across the chain, pulling up loops and leaving them on the hook. This is what you will have at the end of your row.
As there is no turning in Tunisian Crochet, we will now work back, from left to right and remove the loops from the hook. To begin, yarn over and pull through one loop only.
This is what you will have after pulling through the first loop.
Now, you will yarn over and pull through two loops for the rest of the return row.
This is what you have after pulling through the first set of two loops
This is what you will have at the end of your return row. The foundation is now complete.
Once you have your foundation, you can begin working the Simple Stitch. You will continue working from right to left (Forward Pass or Forward Row), then back from left to right (Return Pass or Return Row). Take a look at your foundation. See those vertical bars? Those bars are where you want to place your hook. Skip the first bar, and begin in the second bar.
Insert your hook under the second vertical bar, yarn over and pull up a loop. Again, the loops will remain on your hook in order to complete this Forward Pass.
This is what you will have after working under your vertical bar at the beginning of the row
Continue working under those bars to the end of the row. At the end of the row, for the very last bar, I like to work under both the bar and the strand that is behind it. You can work under both loops, or just the bar; the important thing is to just be consistent throughout your work.
The Return Pass is worked exactly the same as you did on the foundation. Yarn over, pull through one loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops for the rest of the row.
When you are done, you may cut the yarn and pull your tail through after the Return Pass. This is what the top of your fabric will look like.
If you want a more finished edge, all you have to do is work back to the left again, but instead of working under the vertical bars, and leaving the loops on the hook, you will yarn over, and pull through both loops - basically you will just slip stitch across the top of the fabric. Then cut the tail and the end of the row.
To bind off, begin in the second vertical bar as usual, yarn over and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook. This is just a simple slip stitch worked across the entire row that creates a nice, clean edge.
Finished edge
I think that about covers it for starters. Below is the video, which includes the info on helping prevent curl. I hope you find the information helpful and will give Tunisian Crochet a try if you have never done it before.
Optional: Work one or two rounds of Single Crochet before beginning the edging. The instructions say to work into next 3 sc - if you have not worked the base round(s) of single crochet, then you will just work into the next stitch on your item. Try to space as evenly as you can, but don't worry if you have to maybe skip an extra stitch or only skip two stitches between picots to make it fit. It doesn't have to be perfect!
Multiple of 3
Ch 1, 1 sc in next 3 sc * ch 4, sl st in first ch, 1 sc in next 3 sc*. Repeat from * to end, fasten off.
This is a fun border to add to knit or crochet items. It can be awkward at first, but with practice it will become easy.
Reverse Single Crochet or Crab Stitch is worked from left to right, instead of the normal right to left direction - if you are right handed. If you are a leftie, you can find some info here that may be helpful.
Make sure the front side of the item you are working with is facing you, and starting a few stitches from the left most corner, insert your crochet hook and pull the yarn through. Chain one. (This is my personal preference for starting the Crab Stitch. You may begin right in the corner if you wish, and you do not have to chain one. I just find it helpful to do so. I also find it helps get me started if I work a round of regular single crochet. You can begin working directly on your item.)
If you are planning to work this border with the same yarn you are using for the main body of your project, all you need to do is start working backward after the last row instead of turning your work as normal.
You'll want to insert your crochet hook from front to back. The hook should be pointing to the right. Grab the yarn and being to pull through. As you are pulling the hook through, swing or twist the hook so that it comes out pointing to the left. Be careful not to pull the yarn through the loop that is already on the hook. Now, yarn over and pull through both loops.
You can add a Single Crochet Border to anything, be it knitting or crochet. In my video I am working with a small garter stitch swatch that I knit.
I started a couple of stitches away from my corner, then began working a single crochet into each stitch. The corners require a little something extra to help the fabric lay flat. To work your way around the corners, all you need to do is work three single crochets into the same corner stitch. When you make it back to your starting point, just join the round with a slip stitch into your first single crochet of the round. Cut the yarn and weave in the tails. Or, you can continue working in rounds of single crochet for a wider border.
2: Single Crochet into the back loop of every stitch. Chain 1, turn.
Repeat from 2 for pattern.
In the picture below, the front loop of the stitch is pink, and the back loop is blue. You want to insert your crochet hook under the blue loop of each stitch.
1: Ch 9, 1 dc in 5th chain from hook, ch 5, 1 sc in last ch. Turn.
2: 11 sc in ch 5 space, ch 2, 1 dc in ch 2 space. Turn.
3: Ch 4, 1 dc in ch 2 space, ch 5, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc. Turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until edging is desired length.
I came across this stitch in an old booklet of crochet and knit information.
The instructions for the first row contain an error; it states to work in the fourth chain from hook, but you should begin in the third chain. I found correct instructions in another old book. That book however, did not contain Row 2, or that the repeat is from Row 2.
Chain an odd number
Row 1: Insert hook into 3rd chain and *pull up a loop, yarn over hook; pull up another loop through same chain, yarn over hook; pull another loop through same chain. You should have a total of 6 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops, chain 1. Skip 1 chain.*
Repeat from * to end of row. Turn.
Row 2: Chain 2. *Insert hook into second stitch (after turning chain) pull up a loop, yarn over hook; pull up another loop through same chain, yarn over hook; pull another loop through same chain. You should have a total of 6 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops, chain 1. Skip 1 chain.*
Repeat from * to end of row. Turn
Repeat from Row 2
This looks the same on both sides, so would be good for a scarf or other item where the back will be visible.
